Part 1 of 6 - How This Trip Came About
Alan grew up in Luanshya, a copper
mining town in Northern
Rhodesia. His parents had moved there from England in 1952 when
he was 6, and lived there until he was 21. During those
formative years, Alan had two friends: David Smith and Martin
Brett. Once, to symbolize their permanent friendship, they tore
a Zambian banknote into three pieces and each kept one piece.
Luanshya was a small, pretty town with
a pleasant climate and a
comfortable lifestyle, but it was living on borrowed time: in
1965 the former colony of Northern Rhodesia became the Republic
of Zambia, and a great exodus began of all those whose ancestral
roots lay in Europe. Alan ended up in Canada, Martin in New
Zealand, and David in South Africa. Alan's exodus was
particularly traumatic: in late 1966 while studying in South
Africa, where he been an activist against apartheid, he was
visited by the security police (who he knew were investigating
him) and given three weeks to leave South Africa. During his
rush to leave South Africa and find another homeland, Alan lost
contact with most of his friends from those days, including David
and Martin. During the subsequent thirty years, all three of the
friends faced great challenges. But they never forgot their
friendship.
In January 1997 Kevin Boer, a friend of
our son Peter, moved to
South Africa. Remembering that Alan had lived there thirty years
earlier, Kevin asked if he could do anything for Alan while he
was there. Alan asked him to run an advertisement in the
personal column of a local newspaper to try to locate Dave Smith.
A couple of weeks later, Kevin e-mailed Alan to say that Dave had
been found, in Cape Town! Meanwhile, Alan had discovered a New
Zealand telephone directory on the Internet and had found what
appeared to be Martin's phone number, in Auckland. So it was
that on January 20, 1997 Alan telephoned first Dave, and then
Martin. After thirty years, the three friends got back in
contact in a single day.
For some years, Alan had wanted to
return to Africa with Kathy to
trace his roots. We came close to doing so in 1995, when Alan
had accumulated enough frequent-flyer point for us both to visit
Africa. Then our daughter Michelle had an opportunity to visit
Europe and meet her grandfather for the first time, so we used
some of the airline points to send Michelle, and didn't have
enough left to visit Africa.
But shortly after Alan reconnected with
his old friends, the
airline reduced the number of points required to visit Africa.
Now we could go! But there were still many questions: how safe
was Zambia, especially Luanshya which is close to the Congo
border where there had just been a civil war? How would we visit
both Luanshya and Cape Town, almost 5,000 km apart, on the same
trip? Could Alan take a long vacation? How would we finance our
daily expenses? Where would we stay each night?
The first barrier to fall was to get a
long vacation: Alan's
employer changed their vacation policy, giving Alan a unique
opportunity to take the vacations of two successive years
back-to-back. The second was the daily expenses: a long-awaited
insurance settlement provided enough for modest daily expenses,
if we limited our use of commercial hotels to about one day per
week.
Then, through some reference books and
a search of the Internet,
Alan found e-mail addresses for Rob and Lois Neufeld, Canadian
missionaries in Zambia's capital Lusaka, and Pat Coleman, an
American missionary in Alan's home town Luanshya. When we asked
them about safety, both were so positive that we decided to begin
our trip in Zambia. When Alan tried to do that, however, he
found the closest available starting point was Harare, Zimbabwe,
with a two-day stopover in London, so we took that. How we were
going to get from Harare to Luanshya and then to Cape Town was
still to be determined!
At this point we made a mistake. We
visited a local travel
agent, highly recommended as an expert on Africa. He recommended
against driving (too dangerous, he said); but flying everywhere
was expensive, and would leave us stranded once we arrived in
each town. After half a day trying to plan our trip around his
advice, we left his office quite upset, sure there must be a
better way.
At this point we began to make one
contact after another. Alan
phoned Steve Smith, son of a Canadian missionary who'd been in
Alan's class at school in Luanshya. Steve put us in touch with
Pat Forbes, who introduced us to her friend Gael Whelan (both
former Luanshyans now living in Canada). Gael gave us the e-mail
address of her brother Charles Coxall and his wife Brenda who
live in Harare. When we contacted them we discovered each other
to be Chistians, so Charles and Brenda invited us to stay with
them our first night in Harare, and also told us about a
wonderful game ranch called Imire.
Alan also wrote to the (then unknown)
occupants of his childhood
home, asking if he could photograph the house when we visited
Luanshya. We received a warm reply from Elwyn and Roslyn Davies,
who insisted that we stay with them!
About this time we also learned that
our missionary contact Pat
Coleman would be married to Sherry Welch, another missionary, in
a Jewish ceremony in Luanshya around the time we planned to be
there. Of course we wanted to fit that into our schedule!
Alan set out to research the railway
schedules for South Africa
through the Internet, and stumbled on the web page of David
Forsyth, a fan of steam trains who lives in Grahamstown, South
Africa and is also a Christian. David was kind enough to do some
research locally and managed to track down Dennis and Ellie
Winter, more long-lost friends of Alan's who had retired to that
area. Through Dennis and Ellie Winter we were then able to
re-establish contact with their daughter Jennie and her husband
David Starkey. Alan had known the Winters through attending the
same church and through the Youth For Christ meetings that were
held in their home during Alan's time at the university in the
1960's.
Alan also found some African newspapers
on the Internet. In one
Zambian newspaper he discovered a letter from Pat Walden, who had
been a leader in Luanshya's arts community during Alan's youth.
He and his wife Beryl have retired in Hermanus, near Cape Town,
and we were able to contact them via e-mail. Alan also found a
Zimbabwe newspaper which accepted personal advertisements, so he
placed one asking if anyone knew of Peter Frow and Jill
Petherham, who he knew from the Student Christian Association in
his University days and remembered as having lived in Zimbabwe.
Within a short time, Jill's cousin in Australia saw the notice
and put Alan in touch with Peter and Jill, who now live near
Durban! They invited us to stay with them while we were in the
area.
Finally, Alan's friend Christine
Chapman in England, in whose
home the Student Christian Association used to meet in those
days, sent Alan the address of Andrew and Priscilla Kaye, who
lived near Alan in Zambia, attended the same university in South
Africa in the 1960's, and now live in Cape Town.
After this absolutely amazing sequence
of connections, we had a
lot of contacts to visit and quite a few places to stay. To
this, we added our desire to see the Victoria Falls and the Imire
game ranch, and we were able to plan our itinerary to take it all
in! All we needed now was transportation.
Alan called several car rental firms
and found one that offered a
fairly reasonable rate for rentals in Zimbabwe, and better yet,
their US head office assured us we could drive the car into "any
neighbouring country". So we reserved a car, and (as requested)
telephoned the details of our trip to their Harare office.
"Sure, no problem," was the reply. That seemed too easy, so just
to make sure, Alan called again a week before we were to leave.
"Oh, no," he was told, "you have been misinformed. We never
allow our cars into Zambia." "You can't do this to us," Alan
pleaded. "We followed all your rules, and we've planned our
whole trip around this car." After some thought, the car rental
company made us an offer we couldn't refuse: because it was their
mistake, they would replace the compact car we'd rented with a
tougher vehicle with high ground clearance for the Zambian part
of our trip, at no extra charge!
So everything was all set for the
journey of a lifetime to begin
on Tuesday 16 September 1997!
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